First can you confirm you have volts at the point you connect your hook up at the house. Can you confirm you are getting volts at the other end of the hook up cable. Can you confirm you have volts at the motorhome fuse board. Hopefully you are using a voltmeter and not a volt stick?
A word of caution, if you are not confident, get an electrician to have a look. I will have to get a electrician. I was just hoping by a miracle someone may have experienced or have the same van lay out which may save me some cash in the long run. On your MCB there is a test button , I think you may have called this a reset button, when you press it the MCB should trip off and ened to be swiched on again. If it does not trip off you have not got power at this point. Check your supply is live with another electrical item, then check the plug fuse supplying your hook up lead.
Maybe the plug fuse has blown. Another possibility is that you have blown the large fuse near to the leisure battery and when you say the lights work off the leisure battery what you are actually doing is running them off the power supply unit and its mains input and NOT the leisure battery. Unplug your mains lead and see if the lights still work off the leisure battery to prove or disprove my theory. Hi brambles I did that with the unit pressed the button and it tripped off back. I've also checked the fuse supplying my my hook up.
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Does that mean power is entering the Motorhome. I'm Billy basic so excuse my limited knowledge. I've also used a different cable from a new socket in the house and still have same problem. Hi Keith I've checked both fuses that are connected to the leisure battery they are great. I've removed the ehu cable from the motor home and the leisure and cab batteries both independently light the lights water pump etc in the Motorhome.
Thanks for your help. Possibly I am back tracking here but you need to check you are getting volts from mains sockets in the Motorhome. This will confirm you have volts. Use a portable lamp or somethng else mains powered.
If not then you need to find why not and will probbaly be in the main circuit breaker or distribution box fo mains wiring in teh van. So assuming you have power Unplug the mains hook up, Then disconnect the leidure battery negative. Reconnect the mains hook up and check if you can power 12 volts equipment like lights. It may have a fuse which needs replacing. Ther is a strongh posibility youhave damaged it, but this may be as simple as an internal fuse if there are no user accessible fuses.
If you can select power use from leisure or vehicle battery select leisure Assuming lights do work with the battery disconnected or after finding say a fuse blown and replaced it then reconnect the battery AFTER disconnecting mains lead again.
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Check again if things do or do not work. Now you need some way of checking battery votage. A voltmeter is rquired to chekc if teh voltage without mains connected is around 1 to 13 volts. With mains connected it should be Me saying all automotive equipment etc.
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However is it posible you already had a fault and is why you replaced the battery, it getting the blame when indeed a fault already existed. Edited by Brambles Suffolk, Hymer B I suspect there is another fuse somewhere that you haven't found yet.
Look close to the liesure battery, to see if there is an in-line fuse on the cables connecting to the battery - not necessarily right up close to the battery, so maybe further along the cables. The problem with any older vehicle is that previous owners could have put accessories in and wired them up themselves.
Of course there will be no record of this. My 45 year old land rover's wiring is nothing like it was originally. Look for any obviously non standard wires that lead from the battery or the control box. Just be careful when you are on hook up, you have v somewhere. Knaus Boxstar Street. I think Rob needs to follow Brambles' sequence above to determine exactly what works, and what doesn't.
At the moment there is some remaining confusion, IMO, as to whether or not the V sockets are live with mains connected. This can easily and safely be tested by plugging a lamp or similar into each socket, and turning it on. It seems that the 12V electrics work, but we do not know whether this is with mains connected meaning they are running from the charger , or disconnected meaning they must be running from the battery.
Again, this can be easily and safely tested by trying the lights with the mains conneced, and then again with it disconnected. It is possible that by reverse connecting the battery Rob has damaged the charger unit. It may be that it has just blown an internal protective fuse on the charger it will help if Rob can say what make, and if possible model, of charger is fitted , which can presumably be replaced with mains disconnected!
It seems a bit odd to me that RP on the 12V side should blow out the mains circuits, but if it has, it would suggest that the damage to the charger is fairly extensive. I have a So had the unit of the wall and tried to gain access having removed around 8 screws it does appear to be a sealed unit. Does any one know how to open these units and will be Any fuses in there that needs replacing. I did not want to force the unit open I've done enough damage.
Really need to know which model, but the one I think it might be has a switch at one end and there is also a 15 Amp fuse. Its a flush fitted fuse holder with a screw driver slot. I could be wrong if it is different model.
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You must fit with the same type of fuse. I did not see that yesterday when I took the unit out. The shops are closed now so I will get one in the morning. Also do you know if there is another fuse inside this unit. It was a struggle getting it out of a very small cupboards.
Don't want to put it back in and find I need to take it out later. There is a very good chance there is an internal fuse as well. I am assuming your unit is in a metal case which is screwed together 6 screws? Googling I have found this side and pictures of various boards show an internal fuse. A picture of your unit would speak a thousand words.
I cannot imagine it being sealed apart from rivets, or if it is in a plastic case having clippy bits to make it snap rogether before screws are used. Found this website just now googling which may be of help. Hi, I bBetter bring up todate. Robdought and I have been chatting my email as a lot easier. Shore Power Not Working Question: You will need a voltmeter or a test light and have a comfort and familiarity with working on live electrical circuits. If you are not familiar with working on live circuits then please stop and take your RV to a repair facility. If you feel comfortable with your level of knowledge, continue but be aware that you run the risk of injury to yourself and your RV.
Start by disconnecting your shore cord from the power pedestal and reset the breaker s then test for power at the outlet. If you have power at the pedestal, then reconnect the power cord make sure you turn off the breaker before you connect the cord then reset the breaker to the on position and work your way back to where the shore cord connects to the RV and test for power at the end of the cord.
If you have power then go on to the next part. If you have one of these, then look at the diagnostic lights and determine if there is power at the surge protector. We cannot provide details on how to do test your transfer switch- you could try this site for further instruction: It shows how to diagnose power transfer switch problems. Your transfer switch may be different but the procedures should be the same.
If you have power there, then work your way back to main volt circuit breaker s. You will probably have to remove the cover panel to the breaker s to test for voltage at the wire s that connect to the breaker s.